Jutting Softens Harsh Lines

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Jutting creates an efficient walking route and adds a splash of pizzazz

Jutting creates an efficient walking route and adds a splash of pizzazz

Fall is a great time for contemplating changes to your yard, particularly when it arrives with warm days that beg for you to be out in your yard.

In my design practice, “naturalistic lines” and “irregular curves” are the most requested shapes. Space allowing, they are lovely. But what about some hard-core take no prisoners, make no apologies straight lines?

Straight lines can have an energy and vibe that just can’t be bettered. Tight on space? They’ll maximize it. More than merely utilitarian, they simplify design decisions while adding a contemporary touch to the yard.

The idea of straight lines gives you chills? Adding a jut or two will soften the overall look, and take it up a notch from merely utilitarian.

Start with a small sized square or rectangle and use it as the basic unit for the whole front or back yard. It might be the size of an existing deck, patio, or well-established planting bed. Alternatively, the measure on an architectural feature of your home — bow/bay windows, patio/garden doors, out-jutting breakfast nooks — will do nicely. Or simply use a four or five foot square as your unit.

With a grid in place, begin assigning tasks.

In the photo example, a walkway was needed to connect the driveway to the front door. A straight line to the street, or an ‘L’ shape to the driveway are both simple options that come from a grid pattern. But what if you want a fairly direct route from the driveway? Add some juts at the elbow of the ‘L’.

How to jut?

Divide the grid units into halves or even quarters. Test out a few of the resulting lines as possible edges for the walkway (or patio, deck, planting bed…) until you get a nice fit.

In the example, the resulting walking experience is a slow arch to the steps. Creating an efficient walking route is an excellent reason for a jut, as is connecting a walkway to a patio, enlarging a patio or planting bed, or accommodating a dense privacy screen.

With the walkway figured out, two of the unused halves or quarters were used for plantings, and to reinforce the linear style, they were edged in paving stones. One or none would have worked equally well.

Don’t go jut-crazy though. Use the grid as your guide, but where there’s a need, jut away!

(Originally published in the Canstar Community News weeklies.)

The Contemporary Garden Style

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Rectilinear beds of juniper and sedum greet visitors while curving swaths of ornamental grasses escort them to the front door

Rectilinear beds of juniper and sedum greet visitors while curving swaths of ornamental grasses escort them to the front door

Everyone wants low maintenance — actually what we really want is spring to arrive. We’d probably be happy to accept some maintenance if spring would arrive with it!

In my design practice, ‘low maintenance’ is always on the list of must-haves. The contemporary garden style incorporates low maintenance practices with functionality, comfort, and bold edgy elegance.

The palette tends to be simplified but don’t mistake that for sparse and stingy/meagre. Everything in the contemporary garden is done big. Ironically, it is a style perfectly suited for smaller yards, though it works equally well in big ones.

Geometry plays a central role. Patios, walkways, beds and borders tend to be squares or rectangles. Retaining walls and raised beds run in straight lines or a simple arch. Planting is either in straight lines or in masses.

Way too controlling and tedious?

It is very controlled, but in a positive way. The spaces fit together cohesively, and one flows into the next. Flow is key. Walkways flow into patios, adjacent beds flow upward into tiered beds. But before anything gets too entrenched in grids and predictability, a circle or one free-flowing edge busts through, shaking out of any kind of tedium.

In fact, shaking it up is a big part of the style. This is most obvious in the hardscaping, which is as important as the planting. It’s not just bigger patios, wider walkways (which they are); it’s playing with the materials. Juxtaposing wood against poured concrete, or precast concrete pavers surrounded with large rounded river rock, or corrugated tin shouldered up with smooth cut cedar. Individually each material breaks up a large space into smaller interesting units. Butted up together, they add surprise and edginess.

Plants are all about architecture. What has height, mass, and presence? Forget fussy flowering, this is all about texture and year round interest. Swaths of ornamental grasses, masses of sturdy perennials, anchoring shrubs, a single sculptural tree — all selected to suit the growing conditions. In dry locations, drought tolerant plants are used.

Finishing touches include one perfectly placed oversized pot, or perhaps a whole row.

Great for the stylish, as well as the green-minded. Recycled hardscape materials are a natural fit, organic mulch adds a textural interest. And what about our Big Bluestem and Little Bluestem? Absolutely low maintenance, they own the seasons, summer through winter. As for spring…

(Originally published in the Canstar Community News weeklies.)

Keeping The Front Door In Focus

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Red-twigged dogwood paired up a trimmed hedge is a simple effective visual connection to the front door

Red-twigged dogwood paired up a trimmed hedge is a simple effective visual connection to the front door

The front door is the focal point of the front yard.

Ideally a walkway leads to it and along the way affords a good, straightforward view to the door. During the summer, it may be an enjoyable leisurely stroll to the door, perhaps with pauses along the way to enjoy the plantings. Not so much in the winter. In fact, there will be days when it’s more runway than walkway.

Visual direction to the door is critical during the winter, as is a welcome greeting, of the winter type. Of course a brightly coloured door is simple enough, but why not add a bit of planting specifically for the wintertime yard?

First, keep it simple: two or three different kinds of shrubs, or a shrub and a mass planting of perennials with showy seedheads will suffice.

Second, incorporate colour, either to connect with the door colour, or contrast with the house colour.

The plant choices are restricted. We’re looking for mid-sized shrubs — high enough to stand their ground in two to three feet of snow; short enough not to obstruct the view to the door. And we’re looking for tall perennials.

The smaller globe cedars, the dwarf mugo pine, the dwarf spruces, and the bigger vase-shaped junipers are all good choices. But don’t limit yourself to only evergreens for winter interest.

Deciduous shrubs can have great looking winter coloured branches. Dogwoods such as ‘Little Rebel’, ‘Golden Variegated’ and ‘Morden Amber’ have been selected specifically for their brilliant reds. Dwarf Blue Leaf Artic Willow has deep purple. Therese Bugnet Rose has deep reddish-purple.

Hydrangeas lead the pack if it’s a shrub with dramatic seedheads you’re looking for. The rugosa roses retain their hips and make for great winter interest as well.

Large perennials with interesting seedheads include coneflowers, sneezeweed, black-eyed Susan, and ligularia.

Consider the growing conditions, and select two or three different kinds of shrubs, or a shrub and a mass planting of perennials. These plants will carry the show during the winter, so place them sufficiently close together to form a planting. During the summer let them recede into the background. In fact encourage some low flowering shrubs or perennials to steal the limelight.

Alternatives?

Purchase a couple armloads of colourful branches, and ‘plant’ them!

This is my final column for this season. Thank you for the inquiries and positive comments. May your walk to the door be more stroll than run throughout this coming winter!

(Originally published in the Canstar Community News weeklies.)

Speaking of roses

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Winnipeg Parks Rose

Winnipeg Parks Rose

We’ve been tinkering with roses for over 5,000 years. There are roses that are red, orange, yellow, pink, white, no blue – yet, those with heavy scent, no scent, repeat flowering, continuous flowering… With such history, and so many choices, why are we so reluctant to grow roses in the prairies?

Thorns for sure. They all have them, and they make no apologies for them.

They also have a reputation — demanding.

Prickly and bossy is enough to put anyone off, as long as you don’t consider the perks. Not only do roses have beautiful flowers and, luscious aromas, they are drought tolerant. Some have red leaves in the fall, and others make an admirable contribution to the winter garden.

With so much to offer, just how demanding are they?

The hybrid tea roses are very demanding. They’re for the hard-core rose gardener alone.

The hardy shrub roses though, are much more willing to hunker down and get on with the business of being a rose. Many have been developed at the Morden Research Station. They survive our winters, several have a long flowering periods, and many are disease resistant.

Their maintenance needs?

In the spring, each and every spring, just as the leaves start to come out, give it a good pruning. Take the time to learn how to properly prune a rose; it won’t take long. Suit up in some leather gardening gloves and a jean jacket for protection. Use sharp, clean, disinfected clippers. Get in and get out.

Add your rose to your fertilizing and watering regime.

All roses require full sun, and well-drained soil. They won’t put up with chronic moisture. They also don’t like to be crowded so give them some space to strut their stuff. And really, if you’ve got a rose bush, don’t you want to see all its flowers?

‘Winnipeg Parks’ is small (.6 m height and width). It flowers continuously, with intense red blooms. It is lightly scented and has reddish fall leaves.

‘Bill Reid’ is a new introduction. It’s medium size (.9m height and width) with yellow flowers and is a repeat bloomer.

‘John Davis’ is considered large lanky shrub or climber (2.5m height and 1.25 m width). It has pink flowers and is also a repeat bloomer.

There are oodles of hardy shrub roses to choose from — possibly one for every one of us!

(Originally published in the Canstar Community News weeklies.)

Adding Art

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Yes that’s an elephant!

We’ve come a long way from the pink plastic flamingo. Garden art should create intrigue or surprise maybe, but head scratching wonder? The pink and the plastic were one thing, but perching it on swaths of lawn in the middle of the Canadian prairies?

If you find yourself reaching for a flamingo, your yard is probably sufficiently developed that it’s time for some finishing touches. Before falling for the flamingo though, think about context, your personality, and restraint.

Frogs, herons, cattails and similar water-themed art will add a satisfying polish to pools, ponds, bog gardens, dry creek beds, and any water related feature. Etruscan heads are a natural with patios, stone benches, and minimalist plantings. Large abstract forms add elegance to exuberant flowerbeds and tranquil green gardens.

A friend has a significant ornamental allium planting. In flower, dozens of big purple globes float in the wind — very striking. She’s added a couple of oversized metal dragonflies to the mix for bit of fun. A perfect match with the allium and her personality.

Smaller pieces can add finishing touches, and are a simple starting point. If this is your first foray into garden art, select a couple of small pieces and move them around a bit.

Larger pieces and boldly coloured ones are going to be attention grabbers. Placing a large brightly coloured intricate sculpture into a brightly coloured bed filled with lots of different flowers is asking for a battle. If you’ve got a large piece of art, use the plants to frame it, or create a vignette.

One of my favourite yards had an elephant grazing in the front. Big, but in a subdued rusted metal. Tucked behind a purple expanse of monkshood and some large shrubs, you had to look twice to make sure that was indeed an elephant you saw.

Generally, lots is not more when it comes to art. A couple of geese; a large globe and maybe two or three smaller ones; a few sculptural columns; one elephant.

Where to find some garden art?

Our local nurseries offer relatively inexpensive, mostly garden-themed items. Some of our local artists can be found at: Gardening Saturday (March), The Wave, Annual Interlake Artist’s Studio Tour, (June 9&10 and Sept. 1 & 2), St. Norbert Farmers’ Market (Saturdays and Wednesdays), First Fridays in the Exchange (first Fri of the month).

(Originally published in the Canstar Community News weeklies.)

Privacy screens for small spaces

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Dakota Pinnacle Asian White Birch

As much as we may enjoy our neighbours, (and if we’re lucky that will be lots) privacy is often desirable. How else is one to traipse out into the backyard schlepping coffee in her pj’s?

We know when screening is needed. What’s not so simple is knowing what to use. Privacy fences are often too low, and space is often limited.

You call for help, and the horticultural industry answers. Columnar trees and shrubs provide good screening without taking up a lot of space.

In their columnar form, they squeeze nicely into tight spaces between decks and property lines; second storey windows and seating, dining, lounging areas; and at the back of planting beds.

More than one plant is required to make a screen. If you want some fairly serious screening, space the plants at three-quarters of their mature width. Depending on the situation though, simply having something to define a boundary and partially block a view may be sufficient. Any kind of an obstruction will create a buffer, and flowers, fruit, fall leaf colour, and interesting bark will all draw attention to the plant.

As always, match the plant to the growing conditions.

Dakota Pinnacle Asian White Birch is a fast growing, no-nonsense tree. At a mature height of 10 meters and width of 3 meters, it offers significant screening. It has fabulous gold leaves in the fall, and the classic white trunk that birches are much admired for will provide good winter interest. It prefers full sun, and once established will tolerate both moist or dry soils.

Smaller, and slower growing, the Emerald Spire Crabapple reaches a mature size of 5m by 2m. It produces a few pink springtime flowers, bronze-green foliage, and a bit of fruit that the birds will enjoy. It prefers full sun and average soil moisture.

For heavy-duty year-round privacy, the upright evergreens are a good choice.

Skybound Cedar reaches a mature height of 5.5 m and width of 1.25 m. It’s very hardy, and like all cedars, prefers partial sun, moist soil, and protection from winter winds.

The Medora juniper is a bit shorter and wider at a mature height of 3.6 m and width of 1.75 m. A slow grower, but give it full sun, any kind of moisture except very wet, and it’ll give you privacy. Also give it a wide berth — like all junipers, it bites if you get too close.

(Originally published in the Canstar Community News weeklies.)

Late summer flowering perennials

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goldenrod in full summer flower

I always admire late summer flowering perennials. At a time when most of us are nearing the end of our gardening endeavours, the late flowering perennials are just gearing up. After this summer’s heat and drought, you’ve got to more than admire any plant with the pluck and fortitude to pull off late summer flowering. I know I’d be tempted to cancel the whole affair.

There are a few though, that thrive in hot dry conditions.

Goldenrod (Solidago) looks like freshly exploded fireworks in that moment when they hang frozen in the sky. There are a few cultivars available as well as two native species. All come in vibrant celebratory golds. All prefer full sun, and some will do ok in partial sun. They are drought tolerant, butterflies love them, and an added bonus, the deer don’t like them. Goldenrod is often mistakenly blamed as a contributor to fall hay fever. It isn’t. So what’s not to like? It can be a bit aggressive, particularly the native species. Know what you’re planting, and how much space you’re willing to give it.

With a name like globe thistle (Echinops), you know it’s going to do just fine in a dry hot summer. Don’t be put off by the name. It is in all ways a thistle — the leaves are edged in thorns and they’re pokey. Even the flower is pokey. Unlike the weed though, globe thistle doesn’t gallop about the yard in wild abandon. It’s big, 90-120 cm tall, and undemanding. Put it in full sun, average to poor soil, and average to dry moisture, and it’ll humbly fill in that spot throughout the summer and then finish up with an understated sprinkling of silvery-purple globed-shaped flowers. Lovely at this time of year, and fabulous throughout the fall and winter.

Joe Pye (Eupatorium) prefers moisture, but will persevere in dry conditions. At a height of a one to one and half meters, this is one of the big dramatic perennials. It’s tall, robust, and a stalwart anchor at the back of the bed. Ironically its flower is light, feathery, and pink. Go figure! It prefers full or partial sun. There are smaller cultivars available. The native species is one of the big ones, but is very well behaved.

These late summer flowering perennials are worthy of our admiration. Come really hot and really dry, they deliver!

(Originally published in the Canstar Community News weeklies.)

Drought tolerant plants

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drought tolerant bed of sedum and ornamental grasses

This season’s unrelenting days of sun and heat have been great for us fans of blistering-hot summers; not so much for the yard though. Watering during long dry spells is costly, and a questionable use of water.

Ideally, the lawn should have two and a half cm of water a week. In reality, most of us have let it go. Come the rain, the lawns will more or less bounce back.

The other extreme, the vegetable garden, isn’t so adaptable. If you’ve gone to the trouble of planting vegetables, you’re going to have to give them regular waterings. No negotiation.

But what about all those plants in the middle?

Different trees, shrubs, and perennials have different water requirements. Many will put up with a fair bit of drought, particularly if they are quite healthy to begin with.

Maple, hawthorn, Siberian crabapple, bur oak, saskatoon, caragana, cotoneaster, honeysuckle, lilac, nannyberry, potentilla, prunus, rose, spruce, pine, and juniper are all fairly drought tolerant. Well-established trees and shrubs have the advantage of having a large and hopefully far reaching root system to draw water.

Perennials able to withstand drought include Artemisia, bergenia, centaurea, coreopsis, globe thistle, gaillardia, peony, lamb’s ears, thyme.

The plants that look drought in the face and say, ‘bring it on!’ include the native plants, the grasses, and the succulents.

Aster, coneflower, dotted blazing star, gaillardia, goldenrod, harebell, purple coneflower, purple prairie clover, pussy toes, whirled milkweed, wild bergamot, prairie dropseed, June grass, big blue stem, and little blue stem are among the drought tolerant native perennials and grasses.

Ornamental grasses are very popular right now, which is nice timing. There are lots around. Be sure to stick with hardiness 3 with perennial selections.

Succulents hardly seem appropriate for life in hardiness zone 3. Regardless of how hot and dry our summer, winter is still coming. There are two groups of succulents that will overwinter — hens and chicks (Sempervivum) and stonecrop (Sedum). There are a few varieties of hens and chicks, and plenty of stonecrops.

At some point though, all plants need water. Wilting is a classic sign of extreme moisture stress, as well as colour change, and burning or browning tips. Don’t wait for these signs before watering.

As well, in the face of that unrelenting sun, five to eight cm layer of mulch traps and holds on tight to whatever water is in the soil. A good friend indeed!

(Originally published in the Canstar Community News weeklies.)

Fresh cut flowers

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a vase of cleome, garden phlox, oregano, veronica

Some people have entire gardens designated as cutting gardens — talk about a committed love of flowers!

For most of us, the occasional bouquet of fresh cut flowers will suffice. I tend to use whatever is flowering in sufficient numbers that a few blossoms won’t be missed. I want a bit of the garden in the house, but I still want to enjoy those flowers out in the garden.

If you’ve got a good healthy clump of hydrangeas, a half a dozen or so will give a classic, tidy, high impact look. Make sure to include some of the foliage.

Many cut flowers though are going to have a careless, carefree look. Cut flowers by nature are going to be a bit messy. Embrace it!

Start with something you know you want. The more dramatic flowers — tall spikes, oversized globes, a multitude of buttons — are a good starting point. Cut a couple of stems and carry them around your garden, using them as a guide for selecting others. Adding contrasting shapes is a simple way to finish off the bouquet.

Perhaps you’re working with colour theme. If you’ve got some pink, add a bit of purple to it. Bright gold looks good with white. Chartreuse is just begging to meet up with intense vibrant pink. If you’ve got any of those trendy dark purples or browns verging on blacks, pair them up with some white for high contrast, or pinks, purples, or golds to accent their undertones.

We tend to think of perennials as a source of cut flowers, and they are. Aster, campanula, coreopsis. dianthus, coneflower, garden phlox, helenium, lamb’s ears, peony, rudbeckia, shasta daisy, and veronica are all good choices.

But don’t overlook the annuals. Cleome, nicotiana, and sunflowers fit the bill, if you’ve got a hankering for drama. Ageratum, calendula, cosmos, dahlia, straw flower, sweet peas, and zinnia are all good choices for cut flowers.

Adding some flowering herbs such as oregano or chives is a nice touch.

As a finishing flourish, add some foliage. Coleus and hosta are great choices, as is a branch or two from any of your trees or shrubs. Some may be sporting some interesting seeds, which will add colour and texture. But there’s no downside to a branch of just leaves.

Nothing says, ‘summertime bounty’ the way a vase of cut flowers does. Enjoy!

(Originally published in the Canstar Community News weeklies.)

Pests du Jour

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The red lily beetle and aphids are again topping the list of queries to The City of Winnipeg’s bug line.

The red lily beetle is somewhat new to our area. With its vibrant red, it’s quite a dapper looking fellow. Don’t let its good looks fool you. It is bad news for our lilies and us.

The red beetle itself is probably the most obvious sign of problems. As is chewed up lily leaves. Check the lily leaf undersides for eggs which are yellow-orange, and laid in irregular rows. The pupae, which are covered in their own black gooey feces, will be found on both sides of the leaves.

Hand-pick and immediately destroy all three forms. Contact insecticides can also be used.

As well, early in the spring, stir up the soil around your lilies, and catch any emerging adults that may have overwintered there. Adults fly and move about, most unfortunate.

Aphids are always around — our elms are among their favourites, and this year, they’ve added ash to their list. They will happily hunker down on many of our plants though.

The presence of honeydew is perhaps the most obvious indicator of an aphid problem. In the case of small shrubs, climbers, perennials, and vegetables, honeydew is not going to be as noticeable. If a plant has wilting or twisting leaves, or just doesn’t seem to be thriving, have a close look at it.

Aphids are very small and can go unnoticed for quite some time.

They like to hang out at the base of leaves and along stems where they suck the sap from the plant. They come in many colours — green, yellow, brown, pink or black. Lots of tiny wingless creatures on the underside of a leaf will tip you off.

Pesticides are not effective. In fact, using a pesticide will work against you, as it will kill natural predators such as ladybird beetles, hover fly larvae, and lacewings.

Instead, on smaller accessible plants, remove any egg masses, called the clutch. Clutches are found under curled leaves.

As well, spray the affected plant with the garden hose nozzle set to ‘jet’ or the strongest pressure that the plant will withstand. Spray daily for a week or so, and then repeat as necessary.

Pests, whatever the kind, are best battled with regular sustained vigilance. What we lack in numbers, we can make up for in perseverance.

(Originally published in the Canstar Community News weeklies.)